Kashmiri weaving
Kashmiri shawls and stoles are handwoven by artisans with skill learnt over centuries. Its origins are believed by some historians to stretch back to the 3rd century BC, with firm evidence of a thriving weaving industry by the 11th century AD.
The Mughal Empire helped shape the evolution of Kashmir weaving. Emperor Akbar, played a role in refining and popularising the craft. Mughal rulers further elevated their status by using them as "khil'at," robes of honour, and introduced more elaborate designs, adding to their prestige.
Kashmir's fame rests on its fine wool and pashmina which is sourced from the Changthangi goat of Ladakh's high altitude regions. In the late 18th and 19th centuries, Kashmir shawls became symbols of luxury and status in Europe. The iconic Paisley pattern gained immense popularity during this era.
The weaving and spinning traditions of Kashmir, especially concerning Pashmina shawls, are deeply embedded in its heritage, with a complex array of techniques and a unique "language."
The journey begins with the processing of Pashmina wool. The fine undercoat, or "pashm," is collected during the spring moulting season and is cleaned, and sorted. Traditional hand spinning using a "charkha" (spinning wheel) preserves the wool's delicate quality.
Handlooms are essential for crafting intricate designs and patterns. Kani weaving, a specialised technique, uses small wooden spools ("kani"), guided by a coded pattern known as "talim." Kani shawls are renowned for their elaborate floral and paisley motifs. Embroidery, including Sozni (fine needlepoint resembling tapestries) and Aari (crewelwork using a hooked needle), further embellishes these shawls.
Kashmiri weaving shows generations of skill, tradition, and artistry. It provides livelihoods for many and plays a significant role in the Kashmiri economy.
As well as the famous Pashmina wool shawls aslo showcase the skill and dedication of Kashmiri artisans. The Gaddi sheep, native to the northern temperate areas of India, particularly Jammu and Kashmir, and Himachal Pradesh, are crucial to this tradition.
The process begins with selecting high quality Gaddi sheep wool, which is hand spun into fine yarn. Weaving is done on traditional handlooms, creating intricate patterns. Often, shawls are embellished with "Sozni" embroidery, with floral and paisley designs.
The Gaddi sheep, with primarily white wool, are well adapted to mountainous terrain. Rams are generally horned, while ewes have no horns, “polled”. They are integral to the Gaddi people's traditional livelihood, a semi-nomadic tribal group.
Despite challenges, Kashmir weaving remains a vital part of the region's cultural heritage.
